Photo by Kevin Couture
Sonny’s One So True
Jay Villani – Sonny’s, Portland
Chef Jay Villani comes across as a regular guy, but he certainly does not make regular food. Founder and owner of Sonny’s, his second foray into the highly-competitive Portland food scene (he also is the man behind Local 188), Villani has a gift for creating both plates and places that zing with flavor. Sonny’s Restaurant and Bar, located in what was once Portland Savings Bank, benefits from Villani’s decision to save the best of what was already there, including the original stained glass windows and exposed bricks, and to layer it with a hip, metropolitan visual palette. Likewise, on the menu, local resources are mixed with zesty treasures from away with combos like wild Maine mussels with chorizo, jalapeno, and dark beer from south of the border.
First or early food memory: Smelling green bell peppers in the grocery store.
Early cooking experiences: I was washing dishes when I heard, “Hey, kid, get over here.” The sauté guy hadn’t shown up and suddenly I was a cook.
Family influences on your style and taste: I come from a big Italian family.
Where you studied and/or apprenticed: I was a wandering soul who bounced from kitchen to kitchen.
When you realized you really were a chef: When I had to make my first payroll.
Pivotal career move: Opening Local 188.
Places you’ve been to that inspire you as a chef: Au Pied de Cochon, Boqueria, Zuni Grill.
Things you do that keep you growing professionally: Surrounding myself with young talent.
Your favorite restaurant (besides your own): Au Pied de Cochon.
Other professionals you admire most: My staff.
Your least favorite job: Camp counselor.
Ways you’ve become smarter businesswise over the years: By letting people succeed or fail on their own.
Favorite night of the week: Wednesday. It’s a surprising night—sometimes busy, an early start to the weekend, and sometimes it’s quiet. You never know.
What you would want your last meal to be: My grandmother’s pasta fagioli.
The last time you really impressed yourself in the kitchen: When I made island spiced pig jowl.
Your new favorite ingredient: Precooked cornmeal for our arepas.
Longtime favorite ingredient: Saffron.
Memory of a great meal you had in Maine: My Christmas Eve dinner at Local 188 for wayward souls.
Pet peeve when visiting other restaurants: None
Things you’d like to learn or study: Brewing.
What a perfect day off looks like: Me and the boy at the ballpark.
Something about you that people would find surprising: I’m smart.
* * * *
Sonny’s
83 Exchange Street • Portland
www.sonnysportland.com
Hours:
Lunch: Tuesday–Friday 11:30 am-–2 pm
Brunch: Saturday and Sunday 9 am–3 pm
Dinner nightly 5 pm–close
Specialties:
Arepas, house-made everything, excellent cocktails.
Restaurant accolades:
Maine Sunday Telegram, four stars.
First-timer’s tip:
Check out Sonny’s live jazz on Thursdays; half-priced wine on Mondays.
Sample menu item:
Beef brisket enchiladas with house-made flour tortillas, mole roja, cheddar, rice and beans. $19
Directions:
Take I-295 to Exit 7/Franklin Street. At the top of the hill, take a right onto Congress Street. Turn left onto Exchange Street. Sonny’s is on the left.
You must log in to post a comment.